Tucked into the western reaches of Bermuda in the parish of Sandys, Mangrove Bay is one of the island’s most picturesque and historically rich locales. With its calm, aquamarine waters, colourful fishing boats bobbing along the dock, and narrow lanes edged by oleander and limestone walls, Mangrove Bay is both a timeless postcard and a living community. For many, it is the essence of old Bermuda, a place where heritage is not just preserved but actively lived.
History
Mangrove Bay’s roots stretch back to Bermuda’s earliest days of settlement. The bay takes its name from the mangrove trees that once densely lined its shoreline, providing a natural habitat for birds and marine life. As a protected cove, it quickly became a key stop for mariners. During the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, the area flourished as a hub for shipbuilding and trade, thanks to its deep anchorage and proximity to the Royal Naval Dockyard. The surrounding land, once part of extensive royal grants, was later cultivated by local families.
By the nineteenth century, Mangrove Bay had developed into a modest but industrious fishing and farming village. Its proximity to Dockyard meant that the area often pulsed with the activity of British naval personnel and Bermudian workers. During the Second World War, the United States military presence in the west end added a new layer to the bay’s history, with servicemen frequenting the area for R & R. Remnants of this era linger; old pillboxes and storage buildings, now softened by time and vegetation, hint at the strategic importance of the western parishes.
Points of Interest
One of the bay’s enduring charms is its role as a gateway to exploration. At the heart of Mangrove Bay lies Somerset Village, a quaint, walkable community that embodies the easygoing rhythm of Bermuda life. Here, you’ll find convenience stores, gift shops and community centres that speak to the area’s enduring vitality. The bay is also a favourite spot for water sports. Visitors can rent kayaks or paddleboards and explore the shoreline, winding through coves and under low bridges that connect the bay to the Great Sound. In June, the waters come alive with the Annual Edward Cross Long Distance Comet Race, a 15-mile sailing regatta that begins in St. George’s and ends in the bay—a thrilling spectacle steeped in tradition.
A short walk from the bay leads to the Somerset Long Bay Nature Reserve, a tranquil haven for bird-watchers and nature lovers. This protected area features sandy beaches and lush vegetation and offers some of the best sunset views on the island.
Just before Scaur Hill in Somerset Village, a small limestone building sits quietly by the roadside. Most people pass it without knowing it was once Sandys Parish’s jail, courthouse, and post office, sometimes all at once. It was built around 1816, part of an old law requiring every parish to maintain a lock-up. At the time, Bermuda had no formal police force. Constables were volunteers. The jail was where you were taken if you found yourself in trouble. The building is made of thick Bermuda stone, with small windows and a whitewashed roof. The ground floor likely held one or two cramped cells. Upstairs, a magistrate handled cases that didn’t need to go to Hamilton. After the abolition of slavery, the jail continued operating under the same policing system. When the island finally created a full-time police force in 1879, it was named as the official police station for the West End. Edward Skeeters, accused of murdering his wife Anna in 1878, was held there overnight. His case shocked the island and is often credited with pushing Parliament to reform the justice system. In the 1930s, suffragette Gladys Morrell staged annual protests on the jail’s steps, refusing to pay taxes until women could vote. In the 20th century, the cells gave way to tea cups. Locals still remember it as “The Olde Post Office Tea Room,” where you could sit on the verandah and order a sandwich in what used to be a holding cell. These days, it’s a private residence, and part of Bermuda’s African Diaspora Heritage Trail, recognized for its early role in the control and punishment of enslaved people. There’s no plaque explaining any of that, just a small shop sign and a worn flight of steps. But the building is still there, quiet, solid, and very much a part of the village, same as it’s always been
Where to Eat
Just off the main road near Somerset Village, Il Pomodoro is a cosy, casual eatery that’s all about comfort and quality. Specialising in wood-fired pizzas with thin, crisp crusts and inventive toppings, the restaurant is a favourite among locals looking for a relaxed bite after work or a weekend treat.
For waterfront dining with island flair, Cambridge Beaches offers ocean-view breakfasts, BBQs, poolside ceviche, Caribbean-fusion fare at Breezes, and Sunken Harbor Club’s lively dockside tavern with Portuguese flavors and craft tiki-style cocktails.
Community Spirit
Beyond the natural beauty and historic landmarks, what makes Mangrove Bay special is its community. This is a place where neighbours know each other by name, where fishermen still rise early to haul in their catch, and where children jump off the dock in summertime, just as their parents and grandparents did before them. The Somerset Cricket Club, home to the red-and-blue side of the island’s beloved Cup Match rivalry, is less than five minutes away and plays a vital role in local life. During Cup Match season, the energy spills over into Mangrove Bay as residents decorate their homes and host gatherings in anticipation of Bermuda’s biggest sporting and cultural event.
