Tucked along the craggy northern edge of Pembroke Parish lies Spanish Point, a serene slice of Bermuda steeped in maritime history, colourful community traditions and the gentle rhythm of coastal life. Though it may seem a quiet corner of the island today, Spanish Point has witnessed centuries of shipwrecks, admirals, ghost stories and local legends.
HISTORY
The name “Spanish Point” harks back to 1603 when Spanish sailors, shipwrecked in the Great Sound, briefly settled on Bermuda’s shores. Captain Diego Ramirez and his crew left behind mysterious markers (crosses on rocks, coins beneath trees) that hinted at their presence. While they built no permanent structures, the area’s name preserves their fleeting chapter in Bermuda’s early history.
By 1616, Bermuda had been carved into tribes and shares. Spanish Point, within Pembroke Tribe, was mapped into four shares owned by early settlers, and primitive homes soon dotted its coast. The transformation from wilderness to homestead had begun. The eighteenth century saw stone buildings replace palmetto-thatched cabins. One such structure, known today as Old House, still stands as part of Soares’s grocery store. Yet, even as Bermuda grew, Spanish Point remained somewhat removed. A local rhyme described it best: “All the way to Spanish Point, There the Times are out of joint.” In the 1830s, visitors captured its rugged charm. Artist Dr Johnson Savage painted its quiet coves, while missionary Susette Harriet Lloyd wrote of “an isolated promontory indented with numerous creeks and surrounded with black naked rocks.”
PLACES TO VISIT
Spanish Point Boat Club
In 1941, the Spanish Point Boat Club (SPBC) dropped anchor as a community hub. It made waves in the world of dinghy sailing, particularly with its Snipe class victories in the 1950s. The annual summer picnic became a beloved event, featuring bobbing for apples, swimming races, and the infamous telephone pole challenge. “The men would grease it with layers of Vaseline and suspend it over the water. People tried to crawl across it, it was very dangerous!” recalls one longtime member. Today, the club also hosts the Bermuda Folk Club and houses two gigs for the Bermuda Pilot Gig Club, keeping maritime traditions alive.
Soares Grocery
Down the lane at 1 Old House Lane, Soares Grocery has served Spanish Point for generations. The store’s origins date back to the eighteenth century, but it took on its current identity in 1913 when Emmanuel Soares de Figueiredo reopened it as a grocery store. His son passed it on to nephew Colin Edward Soares, who delivered groceries by bicycle long before delivery apps existed. Today, Colin’s sons Dean and Craig carry on the legacy. With its “old-fashioned service,” Soares remains a cornerstone in a neighbourhood where “everybody still knows each other.”
POINTS OF INTEREST
Admiralty House
Arguably the jewel in Spanish Point’s historical crown is Admiralty House, a former naval residence perched above Clarence Cove. Gifted in 1816 by Bermuda’s Legislature to the British Crown, it became home to the Commander-in-Chief of the America and West Indies Station. But its story is one of constant reinvention. Over the years, Admiralty House was patched, rebuilt, and even debated in Parliament for replacement. Admirals came and went, including the infamous Lord Dundonald, whose eccentric improvements included tunnels, a pier and the dramatic galleries carved into seaside rock. One tunnel led guests to a subterranean ballroom where, legend has it, a grand celebration marked its completion.
Clarence Cove
At the bottom of the hill from Admiralty House lies Clarence Cove, named for the Duke of Clarence and beloved for its calm, emerald waters. Once a private beach for British officers, it’s now a public haven. Though peaceful, it bears its share of Bermuda’s stories. A gravestone marks the resting place of young Francillon and caves, once used for tea parties by officers’ wives (and perhaps as haunts for phantom seamen) dot the coastline. Arrive before 10:00 a.m. on weekdays to enjoy the beaches without the buzz of summer camps. Whether you’re there for a swim or a stroll through history, Clarence Cove offers beauty wrapped in quiet reflection.
Stovell Bay or “Pontoons”
Located at the western end of Spanish Point is Stovell Bay, or “Pontoons” Spanish Point residents call it. This small bay is part of the public Spanish Point Park, a popular spot for picnics and barbecues and is a peaceful setting for visitors seeking a quiet retreat. However, Stovell Bay is not just about tranquility; it also holds a piece of Bermuda’s maritime history. At the mouth of the bay lie the rusting remains of the former HM Floating Dock Bermuda, an industrial marvel of its time. While some may view the wreck as an eyesore, it serves as a poignant reminder of the island’s naval heritage. A plaque in the far corner of the bay offers more information about this historical structure. Whether you’re interested in a peaceful picnic spot or a glimpse into Bermuda’s naval past, Stovell Bay offers a unique experience that combines natural beauty with historical significance.
Photo by Kieran Edwards, Lemoment Photography
LEGEND AND LORE
In 1813, a young midshipman named Charles Francillon became the tragic figure at the heart of a local legend. Mistaken for a rival lover by a jealous footman, he was stabbed and later died at the Naval Hospital near Admiralty House. His grave remains in the shade of cedars above Clarence Cove. And then there’s the ghost. From 1962 to 1974, when “Bubbles” Burnard, the Regiment quartermaster, lived at Admiralty House, he and his wife reportedly saw a ghostly admiral wandering the halls. Visitors and staff later confirmed sightings of the specter in full uniform, quietly pacing through the corridors.
