This recipe for cold poached salmon and cumin raita is perfect for the small time between summer and fall, when the weather is still warm enough but when the body craves more sustinance than a simple salad. Serve with fingerling potatoes and steamed asparagus.


For the Salmon:
3 cups dry white wine
1 small onion, chopped
3 celery ribs, chopped
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
3 parsley sprigs
One 3-pound fillet fatty salmon, pin bones removed
6 thin lemon slices, for garnish
12 thin cucumber slices, for garnish

For the Cumin Raita:
2 cups plain Greek yogurt
1/3 cup finely diced seeded cucumber
1/4 cup finely diced red onion
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
3 tablespoons minced capers
3 tablespoons minced cilantro
3 tablespoons minced dill
1 tablespoon ground cumin
Kosher salt
Freshly ground white pepper


In a fish poacher or a pot large enough to hold the salmon, combine the wine, onion, celery, peppercorns and parsley. Add 3 inches of water and bring to a boil. Add the salmon fillet (it should be fully submerged) and bring the water to a simmer. Cover and simmer gently over low heat until the salmon is just cooked through, about 8 to 9 minutes. Turn off the heat and let stand for 5 minutes.

In a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients for the raita and mix well. Using 2 spatulas, carefully transfer the salmon fillet to a large platter. Dab off any white bits and let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until cool.

Garnish the salmon with the lemon and cucumber slices and serve with the raita.