Pawpaws may be referred to as papaya in many parts of the world, but for Bermudians, it’s pawpaw. But how the tree got to Bermuda in the first place is uncertain. The pawpaw is native to South America, and when the Spanish invaders arrived there, they called it “fruit of the angels” because of its paradisiacal taste. Henry May noticed it when he was shipwrecked off Bermuda in 1593, some years before the wreck of the Sea Venture and before the island was permanently settled. Most likely it was left by another shipwrecked party or else was brought to the island by birds. In 1616, Governor Daniel Tucker sent the Edwin to the West Indies to import cuttings, seeds and plants to Bermuda, and the pawpaw was included in this, despite already growing here.
However they may have arrived, pawpaws thrived on the island, becoming a staple in Bermudian cuisine and culture. Pawpaws are not just delicious; they are packed with essential nutrients. They are rich sources of antioxidant nutrients, such as carotenes, vitamin C and flavonoids; the B vitamins folate and pantothenic acid; as well as minerals like potassium and magnesium. These nutrients work together to promote cardiovascular health and aid digestion.
Pawpaws can be eaten in two distinct ways—green and ripe—each offering a unique culinary experience. When green, the fruit is firm and far less sweet, often used as a vegetable in savoury dishes. A classic Bermudian way of preparing it is by peeling and boiling it, and then seasoning it with butter, salt and pepper for a simple yet delightful side dish. When ripe, pawpaws offer a completely different tasting experience. The fruit becomes soft, fragrant and sweet. It is delicious on its own, scooped straight from the skin and can be paired with yogurt or ice cream, enjoyed in a salad, or even made into jams and preserves. The possibilities are endless, making it a versatile addition to both sweet and savoury dishes.
Pawpaws also contain a powerful natural meat tenderising enzyme called papain. This makes it an excellent ingredient when marinating tough cuts of meat as it imparts both the papain and a wonderful flavour. Another way papain is helpful is when one’s been stung by a Portuguese-man-o-war or a jellyfish—the venom contains proteins that cause pain, redness and swelling. Since papain breaks down proteins, applying mashed papaya to a sting for 10–15 minutes can help neutralise the venom and reduce pain.
So the next time you come across a pawpaw tree take a moment to appreciate this remarkable fruit in all its forms.
Rosemary Jones’ Pawpaw Montespan
The name for this Bermudian classic comes from Montespan Lodge in Warwick Parish, where the casserole, it is said, had its origins.
Ingredients:
4 green pawpaws, skinned and diced
4 sliced ripe tomatoes
¾ cup tomato sauce
1 large Bermuda onion, sliced and fried
1 lb top round ground, browned
Grated cheddar cheese
Breadcrumbs
Directions :
Cook pawpaws until tender.
Season with salt and pepper, mash and layer into a greased baking dish.
Cover with a thin layer of tomatoes followed by tomato sauce, then meat and onion, then cheese.
Repeat these layers until all ingredients are used.
Finish with pawpaw, top with cheese.
Cover with breadcrumbs.
Bake at 350° F for 40 minutes.
