“The onion is the pride and joy of Bermuda. It is her jewel, her gem of gems. In her conversation, her pulpit, her literature, it is her most frequent and eloquent figure.” – Mark Twain, 1877
The Bermuda onion is more than just a vegetable; it is a symbol of national pride, history, and culture. For centuries, it played a significant role in Bermuda’s agricultural and economic development. While the golden age of onion exports may be long gone, the legacy of the Bermuda onion continues.
Some historians believe that onion seeds may have been aboard the Sea Venture when it wrecked off Bermuda in 1609 while en route to Virginia. However, if these seeds were planted, they did not survive due to a lack of water. The first documented record of onion seeds arriving in Bermuda was in 1616 when Governor Daniel Tucker imported them aboard the ship Edwin.
An enthusiastic farmer, Tucker encouraged local cultivation, and soon, onions flourished in Bermuda’s rich soil and mild climate. These were not the sweet Bermuda onions that would bring fame to the island. Nonetheless, they produced an important crop that helped the island’s first settlers survive.
By the mid-19th century, Bermuda’s shipping industry had declined, leaving a gap in the economy. Governor William Reid, in fear of what might happen to Bermuda’s food supply in the event that the island went to war with the US, decided to develop Bermuda’s agricultural sector.
During the same period, the first Madeiran and Azorean skilled farmers immigrated to Bermuda to farm the land. These workers, who would come to make up ten percent of the population, brought with them modern farming techniques and the seeds of the Tenerife Onion. It was this seed, grown in our subtropical climate and rich soil that would result in the famously flavourful Bermuda onion. This variety was sweeter, milder, and matured faster than other onions, allowing Bermudians to harvest and ship them to New York markets ahead of competitors. By the late 19th century, Bermuda had earned the title of “The Market Garden of New York City.”
At its peak in 1899, Bermuda exported 446,551 crates of onions worth £64,225 (roughly BMD $9 million today). This industry was so vital that, during harvest season, Front Street in Hamilton would be filled with farmers’ carts loaded with onion crates waiting to be shipped. The onions were packed in slotted wooden boxes made of cheap imported North American lumber and stored in waterfront sheds before being transported to the U.S.
Onions became so synonymous with Bermuda that it was nicknamed ‘The Onion Patch’ due to the amount that was exported all over the world and Bermudians themselves were soon called “Onions,” a nickname that persists today.
Despite its success, the Bermuda onion industry faced numerous challenges. In 1930, to protect their onion crops and other farming interests, the US enacted the Smoot-Hawley Protective Tariff on imported produce. In 1920, 109,072 bushels of onions were exported from our shores; in 1930, 10,937, and by 1937, a mere 1,603.
American farmers in Texas and Florida began cultivating their own “Bermuda onions,” which were cheaper and more readily available. New food technologies, such as canned vegetables, further reduced Bermuda’s competitive edge. Additionally, the expansion of American agriculture into warm climates like Hawaii, Cuba, and Puerto Rico made Bermuda’s onions less essential. By the early 20th century, tourism had emerged as a more profitable industry, and many Bermudians shifted their focus away from farming.
By 1925, Bermuda exported only 21,170 crates of onions, while Americans consumed over two million bushels of domestically grown “Bermuda onions.” And a year later the Bermuda Trade Development Board received a letter from a Toronto advertising agency asking how to counter the rise of Texas-Bermuda onions being sold as the real thing. The Board ultimately decided not to fight it, realising that their onions had become a generic term, much like aspirin or Kleenex. That year only 140 acres of onion fields remained in Bermuda.
Though the commercial onion trade declined, the Bermuda onion remains an important part of the island’s cultural identity, and it remains a staple in local cuisine. Many Bermudians eagerly await the small annual crop of locally grown onions each spring, as they are considered superior in flavour to imported varieties. The onion’s versatility in cooking—whether raw, cooked, pickled, or caramelised—ensures that it remains a cherished ingredient in Bermudian kitchens.
For those interested in growing Bermuda onions, they are relatively low-maintenance once planted. They require full sun, well-drained soil, and minimal watering. However, young onion seedlings need protection from birds. The onions thrive when planted in October or November, with harvesting occurring in early April.
The legacy of the Bermuda onion continues to make Bermudians proud to be called “Onions.”
